My Friend Hassan Hamdy and I decided that we would walk from Sharm to St. Catherine through the desert. We came up with this crazy idea while we were looking at a great topographic map of Sinai. We figured that 20 Km per day would be a fine hike. We saw that it would be possible to do so and camp each night at different water wells. We packed our bags and hit the road.
This was the time for me to go on a hiking/camping trip. We were very exited by the fact that we were the ones choosing the tracks and doing all the preparations. Our plan was to do this on our own without a camel or a guide. We had confidence in every little aspect. Part of our preparations was to calculate walking speed, make other maps indicating distances and time to travel the distance, check backpack's weight choosing food.
We took the bus going to Sharm El Sheikh which arrived very early in the morning. We didn't stay for very long. Waiting on the road for a taxi to pass by, we took a microbus which was willing to take us to Nabk for a reasonable price.
The car stopped at the end of the Tarmac because the driver didn't want to go on the rocky track. We had to walk up to our starting point (Point 43 on the map). That was a walk of about 3 km which is equivalent to less than an hour walk. Coming from the south, we discovered that this point has a military checkpoint (Point 43 on the map). On the map it said the following:
43 – Nabk Oasis on the beach 15 Km north of Ras Nasrani airport. There’s a checkpoint and a police station. WARNING! MINE FIELDS! Around the area.
Looking at the map those red triangles are supposed to represent land mines. These are marked after point 43 and also deeper towards the desert and definitely not on the shore. Real life was not quite as the map was telling us. Very Close to the shoreline we walked by enclosed areas with steel cables and rotten signs which were supposed to indicate warnings from the landmines.
At the military station, we told them our plan, they said they will not let us pass because there were more land mines especially in the track we had in plan. This was depressing but we just had no choice but to go back to the asphalt. Luckily a pickup truck was passing by from the North and was kind enough to give us a ride up to the Sharm-Dahab intersection. We then hitchhiked an 18 wheeler truck which was on the way to Dahab and took us about 20Km away from Sharm and dropped us near Wadi Mandar. We never though that this huge vehicle would even think stopping for us. We were really surprised that it actually did.
Off course the driver didn't know anything about "Wadis" in the desert so we just asked if he could drop us 20km from here. It was marked on the map that a Bedouin settlement (Point 37) should be by the road at the entrance of Wadi Umm Adawi.
As soon as we saw the bedouin settlements, we called the driver from the back asking him to stop. There we started walking. Luckily we found that the first shelter nearer to the road was a Bedouin kiosk selling all kinds of snacks. We stopped for a rest and bought water bottles and drank fuzzy drinks. Asking the Bedouin, we were surprised to know that Wadi Umm Adawi was still further down the road. As per the map we were at the red circle. After a brief stay we took another walk down the tarmac (going to the Blue Circle).
Walking from the red to the blue Circle (Our second starting point to Wadi Umm Adawi). This curve in the photo can also be seen on the map.
When we arrived at our destination (starting point Wadi Umm Adawi) we were surprised by a stony road sign indicating Wadi Mandar. First we never thought that we would find signs with names for the Wadis, normally there isn't any. This one was an exception. We had serious doubts in everything at this point. We opened the map and looked for Wadi Mandar. We found that the Stony road sign was actually indicating the start of Wadi Mandar which is intersecting with Wadi Umm Adawi. Our inexperienced eyes looking at the map would have never anticipated that this point is actually having the two Wadis passing through it (Mandar and Umm Adawi). Our first plan was to take Wadi Umm Adawi from its beginning and we never thought that it could have another name at any point along all of it. Apparently this was not the case.
According to the map (point 37), it said that we should find a school at this entrance point. Many things came clear when seeing things for real. Even though we planned our trip, we were encountering many surprises. Finally we figured that this was our entrance to Wadi Umm Adawi as well as it is for Mandar (Check the map showing how the two Wadi's intersect) .We finally stated our hike after it was long past noon.
By the time we were half way along until the end of the Wadi, the sun was going down and we had passed many bedouin settlements. The last one along the alignment had people who looked like welcoming us. We went for a brief rest over bedouin tea. We asked verifying our directions and also if there was still water down this well of Id Yahmed. We opened our big map and started chatting over our big plan asking all details possible. They filled our water bottles and then we were back on track.
The night was falling. We figured that this was a good thing walking under the moon light so as to gain distance in the cool weather of the night. Our water reserve was plenty. Finally we arrived at the near end of the Wadi. We settled our camping tent, ate, drank and slept. While walking, we didn’t feel the need to drink as much as when we arrived to settled. Somehow, unconsciously, we always felt that we need to drink very little so as to save water for the next day. But unfortunately that’s not how the body works. After an exhausting day like this one, our body needed water and we didn’t feel it till right before that night sleep.
Next morning, we were awakened by a strange sounding animal noise. After a fight about who was going out of the tent to try to scare this strange sounding animal away, I sneaked my head out to see that it was a camel which was also pretty far away from us. We were just not used to the dimensions of sounds in the desert. Our Tent’s color was dark blue and the early morning's sun was not successful in waking us up.
Eventually we packed our stuff, and started to hike our track again towards the end of the Wadi.
Arriving at the point where we had to cross the mountain, our water was so little dangling in our bottles it seamed not worth the effort of saving it for later. Although it is very hard for me to let go our mission, we just said this is crazy and we have to go back.
We went at the bottom of the nearest mountain to rest under its shade. After a long rest, drinking up our last drops of water, we knew we would have a long way back if by any chance we would not have found this water well. Although it was a hard decision, we had to go for plan B and return. While resting, we suddenly heard hammering sounds and people shouting as if two far apart strangers were talking to each other. We couldn't see anyone around... So we followed the voices and found that there was a mine nearby. They were surprised to see us. Off course no tourists ever come to this area. They welcomed us giving us shelter from the sun and cold water... To us this was gold. We were also lucky enough to have been at this very moment when a pickup truck had to pass by the area to pick some of the workers back to the asphalt. So they gave us a ride back. We were kind really unhappy that we didn't accomplish our goal but we were also very thankful that all of these coincidences helped us get back by the easiest way possible.
Although we may have not noticed at the time, we actually had learned a great deal of things concerning reading maps and traveling in the desert. We had endured many obstacles which made the way back look like a very hard task to do and also a longer way than it really is. At the mine workers point, we could have stayed for a while to hydrate, to fill our water bottles and for the sun to angle a little bit. We could have then continue our trip to Id Yahmed's well but we had our minds already set on heading back. Especially when we heard that there is a pickup truck that would be passing through in about an hour. It was like a ticket to heaven, simply too hard to let it go and continue our hiking which also, in our view never would had been if it wasn't for the mine worker's water stop.
Finally, many years after this trip, I have come to realization while putting thoughts into paper. Here is how we made it hard on ourselves.
- We had chosen the wrong season (summer), hoping in carrying less heavy warm clothes.
- We drank fussy drinks at the kiosk (which actually Dehydrates the body)
- We were dehydrated. We had water in our bottles but should have stayed longer with the Bedouins to hydrate our bodies (the stomach can be full of water but time must be given to hydrate the bodies system). The rate of water consumption had eventually increased and we didn’t understand why, and thought that it was individual temptations. The balance was not right and it wasn't easy to determine.
- We didn't have the foam pads that are used to sleep on and are put underneth the sleeping bags. Sleeping without those made it very unconfortable. We were feeling very cold. I remember putting my feet in my back pack to keep them warm.
- Packing when the sun was already high over our heads.
- We were wearing shorts, T-shirts and no hats. This was a very bad combination. We should have been wearing long sleeves long pens and hats to minimize transpiration and to protect our skin from the sun.
- When arriving at the point where we had to calmly look at the map to put paper to reality, we couldn’t find a nearby shade. Considering an umbrella or just a hat at least is essential for hiking in Sinai.
- At the time we arrived at the point were we had to look for our turn, it was midday which means that all the rocks had minimum shade so it was very hard to see tracks on the mountain we had to cross.
- We were carrying water bottles and not canteens which made the water lose its coolness very fast.
- While resting or waiting for a hitch hike ride, the body is still loosing water. Meaning that time is an important factor when water is limited.
Finishing the mission:
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Well the story above was my first attempt to do this trip which ended up pretty badly in a way. The story of my first attempt had to count as part of the whole adventure as to show you how easy we thought it would be and how difficult it really is. To me, this experience was a great one as I am sure we had learned so much from it. I wouldn't dare tell the story of my 6 day trip before telling about this small intro which gave me motive to go back out there and really do the track that we had planned...
Day 1:
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I went there again only this time it was in winter. I made a deal with the local Bedouins for food, a camel and a guide. My guide, chosen by the spoke of this reagion was a 16 years old bedouin named Jameel. He was chosen from the Bedouins spoke refaya'. I spent the first night camping right next to where they lived and the deal was to start early next morning and that was that.
Day 2: (1st heading Id Yahmed)
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We Loaded the camel with everything and started our hike to Id Yahmed's well.
This is Wadi Umm Adawi. The far end is where the asphalt is and where the hike started.
At the end of the Wadi we had to cross over this small uphill on our right hand side to go to another Wadi leading straight to Id Yahmed. This is the part where my friend Hassan and I didn't want to do on my first trial trip.
Right after the crossing, had to take a picture
Met some other Bedouins passing by. Was a rapid tea stop. Didn't even bother to sit the camel.
This is at Id Yahmed
Top view from Id Yahmed
We Spent the night under the stars to wake up next morning for another long hiking day.
Day 3: (2nd Headding Beer El Quaroureya/Humr)
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After having a nice and light breakfast which was composed of Bedouin bread from last night and some tea, we started to pack up and hit the trail. The Wadi became narrower on our move until it ended and we went right up a hill following a trail heading straight to the top. At the top and behind this hill was Wadi Dangala. It’s A breath taking view from the top of a Vast and long Wadi. From this top view we could see the descent is narrow and becoming wider and wider falling into this Vast Wadi. At the end of it right in front, a huge mountain.
At the near end of Wadi Dangala we settled under a tree for lunch and a mid day sleep. After preparing the fire and started cooking the food a huge bee came to visit us and was doing crazy air maneuvers in front of our faces like it was a jet fighter dog fight. We thought it was just a matter of time and that the insect would go away, but it didn't and one became two and two became 4 and so on. We found out that this tree had something particular those bees were protecting. To get rid of them thanks to the smart technique of the young Bedouin, we had to gather and make small piles of dried camel and sheep droppings all around the tree. Then we lit them on fire which made mostly smoke without a fire. This was really effective, We just had to wait a while away from it all untill they all abandond the place.
Lunch time under the tree in Wadi Dangala
After lunch at about 2PM we packed again and started the afternoon hike entering Wadi Humr on our left hand. We then continued our hike towards Humr. Along the way we saw many black hoes, some the ground, some hung between two moutains and many short unused pieces. We also saw many Basins full of water but unfortunatly off course, the water was hot. The purpose of these ones are mainly for erosion and animals. We walked by all the small enclosed gardens untill they were all long behind us and then we camped. Not near any water we relaied on our big water reserv which was carried by our camel. Unfortuatly, at this point on i wasn't interested in knowing where the water well is.
Day 4:
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Somewhere in Wadi Humr... If you look closely at this picture you would see two mountains (very winding walk). This part of the track was one of a kind; every turn had an extraordinary view. The track was somehow so much narrower in comparison to the previous Wadi. Huge walls of mountains from both sides made the Wadi feel tiny.
The herd of donkies.
Basins of hot water only good for animals and plants.
Passed the night in the wadi. no well this time.
Day 5: (Near Mt. Umm Shumar)
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According to the map it said that Mt.Umm Shumar has one of the most spectatular top views, showing the two canals (Suez and Aquaba) and the Ras Muhamed's point in between. Part of the trip was to climb this mountain. Unfortunatly there were two problems. Firstly, the bedouin guide didn't want to climb with me and was telling me that it is an easy way and that i should go alone while he would wait for me.Secondly, I just didn't like this idea plus i was too tired to do the effort even though we would have stayed one night at its bottom to recover. Also and very importantly, it said on the map to take a guide as this one is only for experianced climbers.
Along the way, by sunset time we found a bedouin camp in the high ground of the left montain. Hidden by the density of the palm trees. We nearly passed by the spot without noticing it. That's when we were called and welcomed by the bedouin staying there. We spent the night tere. Next morning we woke up late as we were deep in the valleis of a high moutain reagon. We started our hike at about 9 am. Headding Wadi Rahaba.
We Arrived at about 12 pm (Wadi Rahaba). There was a big Bedouin setlement. In Between the houses, there was a big guest tent which was also where all the families gathered to eat and socialize. There were about 3 family houses which were depending on one water well situated near by. We saluted everyone and drank tea with them at the time when lunch was just getting ready. At about 3 hours later, after this great lunch, I had regained my energy, it was the right time to climb a small mountain to take pictures of Mt. Umm Shumar from far away.
The Highest montain with 2 peaks is Umm Shumar. It is shown at upper right part of the picture, the big block with two peaks connected.
Went down from the mountain, and started to setle my tent and get ready for the night.
It was the coldest night i had ever encountered in my life. I was wearing two pens 2 socks, 2 T-shirts, pullover, sleeping bag and covered and under a heavy bedouin blacket. Inside the tent, I didn't have the foam that campers use underneath their sleeping bags. I just didn't know about it. Now that i know, this item is essential as it prevents body heat loss to the ground.
Day 6 (Wadi Rahaba):
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I woke up very early before the sun was high enough to heat us up. Fortunatly some bedouins were also awake and made a fire. The previous night the Bedouins had mentioned that there will be a pick up truck passing by their camp. I was defenetly very tempting for me to to take this ride all the way to st. Catherine. We sat and negotiated a price for the car ride.
After agreeing on the price, I payed my guide Jameel his sum for the trip. and then took off with the other bedouins in the back of the pick up truck. After traveling by foot for 5 days, it was a bliss seeing all this landscape passthrough without doing any effort.
After a 17 km bumpy ride, we had finaly arrived to St.catherine's area. They left me a bit far from the tarmac as they didn't want the police to spot them and ask them any questions as they are not supposed to do touristic actions because they are not licenced to do so. I walked up to the road and started to hitchhike. I got a ride and finaly ended up in a houth hostel/camp in St.caterine's village.
